Thill (Eric and Bérengère)
Location: Trenal (Jura) Vineyard: 5.20 h in conversion to organic
What does the designation organic mean?
This can be so diverse depending on the personality of their parent, that it is easier to define what it is not. An author's wine is anything but a standard, stereotyped wine, made to please the greatest number. It is therefore rarely produced in millions of copies, copying itself from vintage to vintage.
An author's wine is therefore a wine that does not resemble that of its neighbour. Who from year to year will evolve according to the vagaries of the weather and the mood of the author – the two can be linked. Because the author does not rely on market studies to lead his boat. He makes his wine as he feels, as he likes it, as he can, sometimes... And too bad if not everyone likes it.
This is why signature wines are sometimes classified as “table wine” or “vin de France”. Because the winemaker has not planted the authorized grape variety*, made the assembly or the vinification recommended in the appellation**. He is often a bit rebellious, our author. But that's why we love it!... That said, signature wines are not always marginal: they are present in most appellations, and can be part of the elite of these. this***. Because they don't just have personality: they're good, too! Generally with a very high degree of torchability : you never get tired of it after the first sip.
As auteur wines are not chaptalized, yeasted, tweaked...they can present very different profiles depending on the vintage. It is up to us (retailers and consumers) to accept them as they are, and to remain loyal to the producers, because they need us to continue their activity.
* For example, the Touriga Nacional in the Minervois, or the Syrah in the Côtes du Forez. They are crazy, these authors!
** Some winegrowers dare to produce sweet wines with Mourvèdre or a natural sparkling wine with Pineau d'Aunis
*** like those of Jean-François Ganevat in the Jura or Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace